Neal Rosenthal, terroir czar, wine pioneer, represents for Old School/World

May 18, 2011 § Leave a comment

My latest wine column is on Neal Rosenthal, who for more than thirty years has been one of the most helpful forces for good in the wine world. As my interview with him shows, Rosenthal’s fierce devotion to terroir, both in spirit and in the glass, can be a guide not just to which wines to drink, but really for how to live. First line of the article: “Draw the battle lines.” I don’t love militaristic metaphors, but it really has come to that. To be in favor of truly artisanal wines, made by hand, with love, that express the truth of an actual place in time, you need to be actively opposed to the enemies of those wines. And in this day/age, those enemies are rampant. Throw down!

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