Grüner Veltliner and Zweigelt. Just (don’t) add lobster…

October 5, 2011 § Leave a comment

Grüner Veltliner is still riding a trend wave, though the wave has mostly washed ashore on Wine Fashion Beach. That’s good, because now those of us who actually love the wine can have fun with it and not get distracted. Still, a lot of young, affordable Grüner can be too angular and…well…boring. I could say similar things about Zweigelt, Austria’s best-known red varietal: all smiley faces of raspberry and strawberry, not enough to hold the interest of a full-grown adult.

To the rescue come Martinshof’s “Lobster Label” Grüner and Zweigelt, which I explore in my latest Portland Press Herald wine column. A modicum of ennobling Riesling excites the Grüner, while an analogously minimal addition of Pinot Noir to the Zweigelt has an analogously intriguing effect. What’s the effect? A subtle richness. A tethering earthy touch. More versatility with food. Young Grüner Veltliner and Zweigelt are meant to be fun, and you’ll still have fun with these wines. But it’ll be a more memorable sort of fun.

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