Tom Waits and Randall Grahm, little sweet ones (Dolcetto)

December 28, 2011 § Leave a comment

What’s this, an end-of-year wine column that’s not about sparkling wine? Yes, so iconoclastic — just like Tom Waits and Randall Grahm, the two subjects of this week’s Press Herald wine column. The connections are real, as I juxtapose “the iconoclastic heterogeneity of a classic American artist alongside the heterogeneous classicism of an iconoclastic American winemaker.”

Randall Grahm’s Ca’ Del Solo 2007 Dolcetto is a delicate-flower mule-kicker of a wine. If such a thing is possible, who better to produce it on these shores than Grahm, the Ken Kesey of American winemakers? And Waits’ new album? Oh, it’s splendid, that heart-rending/warming mix of “grim reapers and grand weepers”. Delicate, kicking, indelible. Waits doesn’t drink anymore, but raise a great big glass of Dolcetto to him anyway.

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