Randall Grahm quiets down Bonny Doon? But still a bon(ny) mot or two are necessary…

August 3, 2012 § Leave a comment

I’m an unabashed fan of Randall Grahm’s Bonny Doon wines. Grahm’s a seeker, too, who happened to alight on wine. Who in this country more assiduously pursues what “terroir” actually means, and how wines made in this young, jittery country might express it? He’s like William Carlos Williams, seeking a real-deal American idiom.

Terroir means truth, and unlike Alice Feiring I don’t know that true wine has to be undoctored wine (Feiring might not, either). It just needs to be made honestly, and represented honestly. Grahm does this, more fascinatingly than almost anyone else. My latest Portland Press Herald column gets into it.

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