Robert Parker, Jorge Ordoñez stand down. New Spanish wines rising…
September 27, 2012 § Leave a comment
Over time I’ve become less the Young Turk, less the bottle-grenade throwing tuff guy, and am taking more of a live/let attitude. Robert Parker and Jorge Ordoñez, some of the biggest of the bigger = better boys, don’t reflect my tastes most of the time, but as my man Bob Dylan says, “We always did feel the same, we just saw it from a different point of viewwwwww…”
Still, in my Portland Press Herald column this week, I shine a light on an approach toward Spanish wine that emphasizes what Parker/Ordoñez usually dismiss: the purity, clarity and delicacy of the Joven wines: little to no oak aging, just clean fruit yielding nimble, easygoing “table wines” with bright acidity and low alcohol that don’t lack for seriousness. These are the wines of Viños Libres, a relatively new Spanish import company headed up by Carlos Hubner-Arteta.