Muscadet, for now and forever.

July 17, 2013 § 1 Comment

ImageWhy forever? Because you can age it, dummy! Muscadet is briny, light and great with oysters. Yes. Sure. I get you. But there’s a lot more to the story. My column in the Portland Press Herald last week tells a small sliver of that story.

Gist: Great Muscadet is not to be trifled with. Set aside your oysters, and bring on the main course, even if the main course includes hearty fish, cockles and clams, sausage. And one of the greats of the greats is Guy Bossard. Bossard is a legend in the Loire for his low-tech, all-natural approach. Now that he’s in his 60s and looking to the future, has hired a protégé, Fred Niger, and the winery is now called Domaine de L’Écu.

Whatever you call ’em, the wines are extraordinary now, but will gain tremendous complexity over the next 3-10 years at least. It’s a bargain investment: $19 for a bottle of wine that already offers much of what good Chablis does, and over time will offer even more.

No need for “shock of the new”. Go old-fangled, with classic expressions of classic wines

October 18, 2012 § Leave a comment

This week I dial it back a touch. If you’re always on the lookout for the latest, weirdest, off-beatest, you’ll miss the beauty right in front of your eyes. Cases in point: four terrific wines from oh-sigh-boring grapes — Pinot Grigio, Chardonnay, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon — from oh-sigh-boring regions: Friuli, Piemonte, Bordeaux, Cali Central Coast. Ah, but the wines…the wines…

“Their only messages are from an almost Asian sphere of pure taste, pure expression of land.”

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