Malbec dead, long live Malbec. A brief guide to great Argentine wine

October 24, 2012 § Leave a comment

Argentine wine ain’t just about Malbec. Especially not the Malbec that has flooded the U.S. market. There’s terroir up on those Mendoza plateaus, and it often expresses most thrillingly when the Malbec is blended with Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Cabernet Franc and Bonarda. My column in the Portland Press Herald this week shines a light on ┬áCatena’s Alma Negra and Weinert, a couple of producers whose profound Bordeaux-influenced blends enlarge and deepen the spectrum for appreciating wine from this vast region.

Real world, real Italy, real wines. Adonna Imports and ontological enology

April 4, 2012 § 2 Comments

Sometimes wine writing is best when the tone is dispassionate and clear-eyed. Sometimes it’s best when it’s skewed toward bombs-away passion for something and/or someone utterly deserving. My column in this week’s Portland Press Herald is in the latter camp; you be the judge as to its efficacy. Then drink these wines and judge its accuracy! Adonna’s Jeannie Rogers is the sort of person and wine importer the world could use more of. I’d link to her website but there isn’t any. I’d hashtag the hell out of the wines but the winemakers are too small and old-world to have Twitter accounts. All the more reason to fall head over heals for them, and gain new appreciation for how many other things you do with your life are a relative waste of energy.

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