Verdicchio and the nobility of bitterness

July 4, 2012 § Leave a comment

In today’s Portland Press Herald wine column, I sing the praises of gustatory bitterness. Verdicchio isn’t all bitter, but the fruit is just hinted at while the bracing rocks-in-the-hot-sun quality comes to the fore. That’s a tough sell, tougher even than saying “This wine is great because it has so much acidity!”

But wine and food are really carried by acidity and bitterness, despite the negative connotations of the words. My emphasis in the column is on Verdicchio di Matelica, the smaller DOC in Italy’s Marche (Castelli di Jesi is the larger one) that creates wines of spectacular complexity and length. Embrace the ever-so-slighly challenging.

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