Actual wine! From an actual place! Slovenian hill whites

February 27, 2013 § Leave a comment

Back in November I mentioned an article I’d had published in the Art of Eating, which focused on the skin-macerated Kabaj Rebula. Well, Kabaj wines are finally available in the great state of Maine, and my column in today’s Portland Press Herald celebrates that news.

In addition to the Rebula, there’s also Ravan (made from Tocai Friulano, or as the Slovenians sometimes call it, Zeleni Sauvignon), and the Wine of Wines, Amfora (made in traditional 3,500-liter qveri, Georgian clay amphorae).

This is singular wine, for real. There is nothing like it anywhere else, because there’s no land like the land of Collio/Brda — it’s the only winemaking region where the climate and soil of the Alps meets the climate and soil of the Mediterranean — and there’s no one like Jean-Michel Morel, the Bordelaise ex-French-Foreign-Legionnaire, who makes Kabaj wines.

Please enjoy these wines, made by and for true adventurers. Thanks to Blue Danube Wine Co., and Devenish Wines in Maine, for making it possible for us to do so.

Slovenia! Old school breaks the new rules

November 14, 2012 § Leave a comment

I’ve just had an article published in my favorite food journal in the United States, the Art of Eating. (Well, AoE ties with Simple Cooking). It’s a short column on a fascinating wine from a fascinating wine-growing region, Gori┼íka Brda in far northwestern Slovenia. (How far northwestern? Well, you can see Friuli, in Italy, from the vineyards I was in.)

The wine is Kabaj Rebula, imported by the crucial people at Blue Danube. If you’re geeky, you know Rebula by its Italian name, Ribolla Gialla. Well, geek, this isn’t your garden-variety Ribolla Gialla. The winemaker, Jean-Michel Morel, is a crazy genius. The wine is spectacular. Stars/gods/Earth willing, Kabaj wines will be available in Maine within the next month or so. Don’t worry: when they do, I’ll let you know. (For now, get down to New York.)

Please, get yourself a subscription to the Art of Eating. The physical magazine itself is a work of art, and will renew your faith in food, craft, people.

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