November 21, 2012 § Leave a comment
Beaujolais needs the what-the-hell-it’s-November-I’ll-buy-a-bottle-of-Nouveau masses to step up their game, and the Gamay-is-great-but-only-in-Morgon-or-another-fancy-Cru snobs to step down theirs. My column in the Portland Press Herald today is the field on which we all can play games together. And play we should. Play is what Beaujolais is all about.
This year I ended up charmed and accepting with the Nouveau (Joseph Drouhin’s more than Georges Duboeuf’s), and delighted deep-style by one particular non-Cru Old-Vines Beaujolais, from the splendid Pierre-Marie Chermette (which also got a shout-out today, coincidentally [?] by Eric Asimov in the New York Times). The latter is so pure, so supple and joyous, you’ll probably want to keep drinking nothing else for a long time.
Nouveau is a fun game of hopscotch on the driveway. The Chermette is a more involved, hours-long, soul-satisfying capture-the-flag contest at summer camp. Either way you go, please join in our game.